CHECK OUT OUR SELECTION OF PREPARED BUGEYES (AND NON-BUGEYES) FOR SALE BELOW!

Striking 1961 Triumph TR3A for sale

NOW SOLD TO Larry in Georgia! Congratulations Larry!

NEW THIS WEEK! A few great repairs and a great driving video! Click below to ride along in this nice Tr3!

FIXED! There was a small rusted section of frame on this car-we have cut out that rust and replaced the frame section with new sheet metal. Tom drove the car with the frame like it was for the past 40 years without issue, but now it’s fixed right, and the car is stronger than new! No more underside issues!

There’s a small picture at left-you can see how we cut back a section of frame to get rid of any rust and welded in the new section (in black). You can see more pictures in the gallery-we spliced in a correct new steel frame section to restore this car for the next 40 years! The welds were ground smooth and the section was sealed and painted black. Also new this week-we completely rebuilt the original speedometer and tachometer and put in new cables so that the gauges are now also good as new!

Here’s a different kind of “Bugeye.”

TR3s are a blast, and this one is a perfect driver that just about any British car lover will thoroughly enjoy. We just got the car from the 40 year owner, who traded it for the Bugeye “Luigi.” He was ready for a change. (But this car will blow Luigi away.) Tr3s are quick! Indicated mileage is 56,032

TS73540L is a superb driver. The paint shines beautifully. It’s about a 40 year old paint job, and you would never know it because the car looks quite good. Originally Yellow, the car was repainted red just before the last owner took possession in 1978.

We have all the original ownership history, including the original title From June of 1961 when one Linda Hoyt of Darien, CT purchased the car new from International Motors of White Plains, NY. She then sold the car to Joe Mauro of Stamford, CT on September, 30 1972. He sold it on August 1, 1975 to John Anzalone of Southbury, CT, who sold it to Robert Milford of Woodbury, CT on 2/12/77, who then sold it to Tom, the most recent owner, in 1978. Five owners since new. Wilford rebuilt the engine and painted the car, says Tom. The paint has held-up incredibly well!

It’s easy to see why Tom kept this car for more than 40 years. It’s a perfect sports car, rugged, windy and very sexy with an awesome exhaust note. These cars are like tractors, they just seem bulletproof. And this one’s a pisser to drive.

The top is nice, no tonneau, worn side curtains. The engine is strong, with great oil pressure. Disk brakes up front, as stock. Four speed non-overdrive transmission. Solid body. No visible damage anywhere, nice straight lines. Spare tire well is quite clean. The car needs very little and you can drive it anywhere. Paint is older but no crazing anywhere, it was a good job. This is a car you don’t have to worry about. The interior shows a little wear, like a nice but slightly worn pair of blue jeans. Yet the overall appearance will stun everyone, no matter where you go. It looks that great.

Call or email if you want to make this great sportscar your own!

Classic Mini! 1961 Classic Austin Mini Estate Countryman (Woody) For Sale

A ’64 Mini Cooper was the car I owned just before I bought my first Bugeye way back in the 70s, so I have a particular affection for early cars like like the Mini you see here. This one is a head-turner, and a joy to drive.

In September of last year, we performed a major service to this car and made it into a wonderful driver. We replaced shocks, ball joints, wheel cylinders, drums and shoes and a host of smaller issues, all with the eye to make the car easy to use and ready to go for the former owner, who used the car sporadically and recently decided to simply sell it to us.

Price Reduced! Now $15,495! That’s a lot of fun for not a lot of money!

The car is fit with a 998 cc engine with a four synchro later gearbox. The engine and gearbox are presumed to be from a later classic Mini. The car runs great and shifts smoothly.

Drum brakes are fit all around and they work wonderfully, the car stops straight and true. Nice 165/70×10 Yokahama tires are fit to ten inch minilights for a great performance ride.


You can now jump in this car and drive anywhere. It starts up easily, runs well and the brakes work great!

If you like these woody wagons, this one will provide exceptional summer fun! Call if you would like to take this one home!

This one is registered as a 1961 Mini and it has early door hinges, latches and windows, but a more modern interior and dashboard, complete with comfortable headrest equipped seats and a nice wooden dashboard. The car drives great and would be the ultimate beach cruiser with your surfboard on top!

PS: What is the difference between a Traveller and a Countryman?

Answer: Very simply a Morris Mini estate is a Traveller and an Austin Mini estate is a Countryman. Some people wrongly think that one model had the wood and the other didn’t, but both the Morris Mini Traveller and the Austin Mini Countryman were available both as a Woody and as an all steel version.

PPS: Ever driven a RHD English car? It’s a hoot! My wife regularly drives our RHD Morris Traveler, no problem! If you are unfamiliar you’ll find it takes about 5 minutes to get used to it, and the rest is pure fun. RHD amplifies the attention one gets with a classic car. Totally legal and easy to register anywhere in USA (or elsewhere, we’ll help).


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Exceptional Fully Restored 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite for Sale

NOW SOLD TO Anthony in Arkansas!!! Congratulations! Our 230th!!!

This 1960 Sprite is a winner. We call it “London.”

AN5L 21636 was a 1960 barn-find car that was lucky to meet it’s restorer, because it came back to life better than new after a rotisserie restoration, with every square inch redone via a blank check restoration. There is a lot to love here. If you want an extremely well restored Bugeye, take a serous look at this car.

Everything is new, with a rebuilt and uprated 1275 power plant and new front disk brakes. There is also an electronic ignition system installed (to get rid of the ignition points), a front anti roll bar and K and N lifetime air filters too!

The underside in particular shows the work of a master restorer. Everything is stunning, and all the new floor pans were put in perfectly. The exhaust is stainless steel.


A gorgeous high-end stayfast dark blue tonneau is included, as well as a nearly new black Everflex top. The steering wheel is also a work of art by Mike Lempert, with a walnut inlay to make the wheel one-of-a-kind.

Look through the photos and call me if you want to own one of the best.

Positive ground simplified

Believe it or not, wiring a car with positive ground is supposed to make them rust less. Doesn’t seem to work very well… my first car, a (positive ground) 1966 MGB came to me with rocker panels completely absent, as though they had vaporized. At the time the car was only 12 year old! The car needed more than positive earth to survive..BMC Corp needed more than the flow of electrons to rustproof their cars.

Around 1967, negative earth became more popular and more common on all cars, especially British ones. Negative is nice because you can power negative ground cigarette lighters, LED lights and stereo systems. Alternators require negative ground too, if you are planning a conversion for more output. Negative ground is more common and less intimidating so it’s a popular conversion for formerly positive ground cars. Thus we now have a mixed fleet, with classic cars (and Frogeyes) set-up for both positive and negative ground. It’s imperative that you learn how to identify with ease which type you have. We find that many people are still quite confused about battery polarity and British cars, so I’ll try to clear things up a little here.

Which way is the Frogeye grounded in the photo above? Can you tell from the photo? Don’t let colored leads and stickers fool you, this is something you want to verify before you create a shower of sparks and potentially do any damage.

All batteries have a marking on the case that identified positive and negative. Sometimes these marks are hard to see when the battery is installed in the car. Let’s presume you can’t see those markings-how can you differentiate the polarity? The larger terminal is the giveaway. Every battery has a larger positive terminal. You can see in the photos below that the positive terminal is slightly larger. So in the photo above, the battery above is wired for negatve ground, with the smaller terminal on the right wired to the firewall for ground and the fatter post wired to the starter solenoid.
Make sure you know before you hook up a charger or a jump, because reversed polarity can melt your charger and/or damage your wife’s car if you jump incorrectly. Whenever you connect another battery to yours (or a charger), always connect negative to negative, and positive to positive. Whether you have positive or negative ground, this rule always holds true.

Once you ID your configuration, mark the terminals with a sharpie to make life easier in the future!

The long and winding Bugeye road

I have to confess that I am not happy with the tension in the air these days. Seems like every time I turn on the radio, the world has turned inside out. Nothing is as I once knew it. This week, the Russsians are coming, the Russians are coming! But this time, we invited them. Not much makes sense anymore. So when I meet a guy like Timothy Princehorn (pictured here), it brings me back to a time where I at least had my footing, a time I sorely miss.

Timothy bought this Teal Bugeye from our inventory, flew up here from Tennessee, poured himself into his new car and, for his maiden voyage, headed out today on a five hour soujourn to Syracuse, New York.
Simple. Unencumbered by any news, fake or otherwise. Both sides of the aisle agree. Bugeyes are good for you. Long Bugeye drives are even better. No top. No windows. No A/C. No back-up camera. No problem. It made sense back then. It still makes a lot of sense now.

Bugeyeguy Driveway-Mile Zero

Thanks Timothy. Thank you for keeping the flame alive. Thanks for diving in. Thanks for living and re-living the simple dream of a boy (or girl) and their sportscar.

(And after a week in Syracuse area with family, Tim heads South to Tennessee in his new Bugeye. That’s a nice summer drive!)

Bugeye Sprite A pillar water leaks

The stamping in the sheet metal seems to funnel the water into the front hole, where it can pool in the A pillar…

While preparing Timothy’s teal Bugeye (above) for his road trip, I was briefly caught in a shower. I zipped into our garage and dried the car, and forgot about the deluge until we removed the windscreen the next day to replace the windshield to body seal. Much to my surprise, the depression in the cowl under the windshield pillar was quite wet 24 hours later. The rust commonly found at the bottom of Bugeye A pillars was starting to make more sense.

These seals are extremely important. About 50 percent of the Bugeyes we see have some form of blistering at the union of the A pillar and rocker panel. If the windhshield doesn’t seal properly, water runs into the little cavity shown, which funnels water right into the front windshield post hole. You can see how the captive threads are wet, so it’s easy to imagine water dripping down into the flat A pillar floor and ruining your car.

Here’s the new gasket, rolled under for a tight seal. You’ll also notice the windshield wiper posts are clear of the seal when you roll the edge under, which helps keep water out.


The seals that keep out the water have to be done right. I’ve written before about rolling the cowl gasket under so that it forms a tight seal. When it’s unfurled flat, that cowl seal will wick water underneath the windshield, which will run down to the mounting holes and into the car. This car had cracks in the seal, which made water entry easy.

The pad gaskets also have to be sound. We routinely enlarge the holes on these to get them to fit, so that has to be done carefully or there will be more opportunities for water to find its way into the A pillar. Lastly, make sure to tightly butt the new windshield to body gasket right up against the pad gaskets. If they overlap, water will get in, and if there’s a gap, water will get in there too.

The windshield post base pad seals best on the body when the cowl seal is butted against it. Make sure the cowl seal is not underneath, or water can run in. Be careful not to leave a gap between pad and cowl seal, or water can sit in that space too.


We sell new gaskets and you should check to make sure yours are sound. If yours are cracked, you’re due. Voids in the gasket under your windscreen will let water in even when you are washing the car. Good rubber will help you keep the water out.

To buy new ones click the links:
New windshield to body gasket that fits
New windshield post pad gaskets

Contact us at David@bugeyeguy.com or call (203)-208-0980 during business hours