Don’t do this to your Bugeye Sprite-Part 3

This picture tells the story of time, and what happens as an immobile Bugeye is slowly digested by other non-mobile, non-British flotsam and jetsam.

Never place anything heavier than a feather on the back deck (or nose) of your Bugeye, as it is easy to flex, rumple and/or crease. When pushing these cars, make sure to push from the outer edges near the seams, or from the bumpers, to support your push without denting the rear deck or nose. It can take a lot of hours to make them smooth and fair during restoration once they get dented. It’s best to avoid the problem in the first place.

This is a car that has sat in one place for about 30 years. It’s now on its way to our shop (without the raised panel doors, baskets, and fluorescent light tube) to be made running and driving again.

No more errant holes! Our new rear deck template is here to help…

Here’s another new product that will help you make your Bugeye better!

Back in the old days when Bugeyes were just cars and not wonderful classics, people seemed to drill into them regularly, without pause or planing. A case in point is the red kellison car shown above, which was quite perforated before we prepared it for new paint. Kenny welded shut no less than 19 errant holes. There were 6 extra holes alone for the license plate mount (now there are two, in the right place). Notice all the ground welds, each shiny patch is a former hole. Sometimes it seems like hole-filling is our number one occupation! Nothing ruins a new restoration quite like extra holes that the restorer neglected to fill.

Our templates saved the day! In fact, with our dash template, rear deck template and back end template (click to order), you can properly locate every hole and return your car to its factory greatness! Below you can see the template at work, which tells you which holes stay and which ones need to be filled.

With this car, we chose to weld shut all the short tonneau lift dot stud holes and convert this one to a long tonneau car. Short tonneaus are great, but given a choice, the long tonneau makes the back deck much cleaner. Notice in the photo below how we filled all the holes along the back cockpit edge for the short tonneau formerly fit on this car. Now we only need the four rear tenax fittings which accommodate both the top and tonneau.

There is no longer any excuse for a vacant hole!

Bugeye Basics-How to fit a Bugeye Sprite top frame and top/hood

Here’s the first installment of a new series we call Bugeye Basics. In these videos and posts, we will answer the most common questions from new Sprite owners.

Today, we cover the operation of the top bows and top. You can see this detailed in two separate videos below. We’ve added a new category in the right margin called “Bugeye Basics,” so you can find this and other basics posts easily in the future.

In the video, we highlight a few useful products, which you can order at the link below. In particular, every one of these tops is very vulnerable to boot rash, which happens when the clear plastic window gets scratched up from sliding around in your trunk. Our bag ensures your top will look just as good when you take it out as when you put it in.
Check out all of our Bugeye Top product offerings by clicking here.

All about Bugeye Sprite side curtains

Here’s a sidecurtain basics video, requested by a few different clients who were putting on their Bugeye windows for the very first time.

If you want to extend your driving season, side curtains are essential. The problem is that most of them have been damaged from a lifetime sliding around the boot. And when you go to use them, the scratches in the windows reduce visibility dramatically, and render them almost useless. So back in the boot they go, never to be used again.

We have the parts so you can give your windows another chance… we sell new plexi in our catalog, and new window sets if yours are missing. And new rubber gaskets too, should those be needed. But most important is a soft pouch, to protect the plexi and ensure scratch free windows, and thus good visibility, and safety for all occupants!

Buy a set of new side curtains by clicking here

Buy a side curtain pouch by clicking here

Click here to head over to the Side Curtain section of our Online Parts Catalog 

How to properly fuel a classic car

I am constantly surprised to see classic cars with paint damage beneath their fuel filler neck. Gasoline is corrosive and you don’t want to get any on your paint if you can avoid it. So I made a fuel-fill video below so you can see my technique to prevent fuel from spilling.

First off, self-service fueling is required. I would never leave this to a stranger so full service is very high risk. In fact, I  have seen several cars with fuel nozzle scrapes near the fuel fill. Some people just aren’t very careful when they are swinging the spout!

Secondly, topping off these old cars is risky. If you overfill the car and then park it in the sun, the vented caps will bleed fuel out of the tank and perhaps onto your paint. Sometimes filler necks leak onto the top of the fuel tank, which never smells good. So try to stop filling about a half gallon from the very top. That leaves some room for expansion. I believe the photo above is damage from heat expansion overflow. So if you overfill, make sure to burn some fuel before you park the car in the sun!

And finally, try not to move the nozzle out of your tank before the fuel has drained out, that way, you won’t drag a few drops onto the paint and cause damage!

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